okeh here's how i prepare my scannings(with sprockets).
usually the transparent glass(the thinner,the better,but not to thin as then it'll be really fragile) is considerably cheap,compared you scanner.
i got mine for around RM1 for 3/4 of the glass of the mirror.
ADDED NOTE.
dont buy the same dimension as the scanner's glass, as you wont be able to adjust the negative for alignment,later.
i put a whole load of masking tape at both ends, so that the glass is slightly lifted, and this eliminates the newton ring effect(most of the time).
i put a wee bit of masking tape at the end,that works as a handle, so i can lift them up,and put it down slowly,with out my oily fingers to stain both the negatives and the glass.
when you're laying the film down, make sure both the masking tape that is wrapped around the glass, and the film dont enter the calibrating zones (as pictured)
when you've actually laid it down, you'd want to align the negative so that you can easily crop while you're in the scanner's plugin interface,right?
choose one of the lines below the glass (the inside of the scanner),close one of your eyes, and align the negative.
it may require you some practice, but it doesnt have to be that perfect.
run photoshop,
then go to file>import>canoscan.
then
press preview.
when it has finished scanning the negative for previews,
delete all crops, and there will be just one crop displayed.
then pull the cropping tool, and highlight it over your pictures,
and make sure that the cropping does not cross onto the sprockets just yet
after it has shown the previewed zoomed version,
you must then drag the cropping tool over to the sprockets.
at this point, it doesnt mattter if you have selected the edges over the sprockets.
NOTE.
THIS METHOD CAN BE USED WITH 120 FILM AS WELL,THAT'S WHY I CAN GET THE FRAME,ALONGSIDE WITH THE NEGATIVE SCAN.
BUT DURING 120 SCANS, YOU CAN CROP THEM INDIVIDUALLY AS THE SPROCKETS HAVE NO PROBLEM WHATSOEVER WITH THE CROPPING TOOL.
THE REASON THE SCAN TURNS OUT MUDDY IS BECAUS THE SPROCKETS HAVE HOLES.120 NEGATIVES HAVE NONE.
ADDED NOTE SOME MORE.*giggles*
LOMO ENTHUSIASTS CAN NOW SCAN HOLGA SHOTS WITH THEIR SPROCKETS (WHEN THEY USE 135 FILM IN THEIR HOLGA)
THIS IS FOR THE ONES WHO USE THE ORIGINAL MEDIUM FORMAT HOLGA, AND NOT THE 135BC.
after scanning (i usually do it around 2400 or 1600,depends on ur personal tastes),u'd get the scan as a whole.
satu keping scan lah,macam tu.
u need to properly crop it the way u want it, alongside with the sprockets.
u can highlight the image using the marquee tool,copy it,then paste it onto a new document,before saving it as a new jpeg. at least that's how i do it
well that's all folks!
i hope this really helps!
http://bakrihafizhisham.com/blog
http://flickr.com/bakrihafizhisham
usually the transparent glass(the thinner,the better,but not to thin as then it'll be really fragile) is considerably cheap,compared you scanner.
i got mine for around RM1 for 3/4 of the glass of the mirror.
ADDED NOTE.
dont buy the same dimension as the scanner's glass, as you wont be able to adjust the negative for alignment,later.
i put a whole load of masking tape at both ends, so that the glass is slightly lifted, and this eliminates the newton ring effect(most of the time).
i put a wee bit of masking tape at the end,that works as a handle, so i can lift them up,and put it down slowly,with out my oily fingers to stain both the negatives and the glass.
when you're laying the film down, make sure both the masking tape that is wrapped around the glass, and the film dont enter the calibrating zones (as pictured)
when you've actually laid it down, you'd want to align the negative so that you can easily crop while you're in the scanner's plugin interface,right?
choose one of the lines below the glass (the inside of the scanner),close one of your eyes, and align the negative.
it may require you some practice, but it doesnt have to be that perfect.
run photoshop,
then go to file>import>canoscan.
thenpress preview.
when it has finished scanning the negative for previews,
delete all crops, and there will be just one crop displayed.
then pull the cropping tool, and highlight it over your pictures,
and make sure that the cropping does not cross onto the sprockets just yet
after it has shown the previewed zoomed version,
you must then drag the cropping tool over to the sprockets.
at this point, it doesnt mattter if you have selected the edges over the sprockets.
NOTE.
THIS METHOD CAN BE USED WITH 120 FILM AS WELL,THAT'S WHY I CAN GET THE FRAME,ALONGSIDE WITH THE NEGATIVE SCAN.
BUT DURING 120 SCANS, YOU CAN CROP THEM INDIVIDUALLY AS THE SPROCKETS HAVE NO PROBLEM WHATSOEVER WITH THE CROPPING TOOL.
THE REASON THE SCAN TURNS OUT MUDDY IS BECAUS THE SPROCKETS HAVE HOLES.120 NEGATIVES HAVE NONE.
ADDED NOTE SOME MORE.*giggles*
LOMO ENTHUSIASTS CAN NOW SCAN HOLGA SHOTS WITH THEIR SPROCKETS (WHEN THEY USE 135 FILM IN THEIR HOLGA)
THIS IS FOR THE ONES WHO USE THE ORIGINAL MEDIUM FORMAT HOLGA, AND NOT THE 135BC.
after scanning (i usually do it around 2400 or 1600,depends on ur personal tastes),u'd get the scan as a whole.
satu keping scan lah,macam tu.
u need to properly crop it the way u want it, alongside with the sprockets.
u can highlight the image using the marquee tool,copy it,then paste it onto a new document,before saving it as a new jpeg. at least that's how i do it
well that's all folks!
i hope this really helps!
http://bakrihafizhisham.com/blog
http://flickr.com/bakrihafizhisham
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