Tripods are an invaluable aid for making sharp pictures. If you can, you should use them all the time. You’ll be pleasantly surprised when you compare the kind of sharpness you can get with your camera on a tripod, as opposed to pictures shot handheld. If you are loathe to carry a tripod, at least carry a mono pod or a mini tripod. In a difficult situation, you can brace a minipod to a wall, a tree or some other firm structure to minimize camera shake. When acquiring a mini pod, look for one that is strong and firm. The ones with flexible legs are quite useless for the relatively heavy DSLRs.
A PhotoMalaysia Mini Pod available on special order.
Other aids for keeping the camera steady are clamps and bean bags. So do make it a habit to always use a camera support system. My advice for tripods is the same as for lenses:-
Tripods, like lenses, are forever. Buy the best, once and for all. If you have the best at the start, you will not have to upgrade. I’ve been continuously selling off my hoard of tripods, monopods and their accessories several times over in a silly continuous process of upgrading. It’s really not very clever. So buy the best at the start so that you don’t have to upgrade anymore. At the moment I have two monopods (Manfrotto 682B and 678B) and two tripod sets. The one I use when I need to travel light is a Gitzo 1541T which is light, strong, and firm enough to support upto 8 kg. For home base use, I have a Carbon Fibre Manfrotto 055MF3. For light duty use I will carry the 678B Monopod. I’d love to get rid of the Manfrotto for a Systematic Gitzo but its going to be quite painful because over the years I’ve collected lots of accessories for the 055MF3, such as focusing rails, a pano head, a hydraulic ball head, a geared 3 way head, and various other fancy and not very useful stuff. So I guess I’m locked in.
Gitzo 1541T
I'd recommend that you also get a carbon fibre tripod as a first and permanent choice. Go and check out a Gitzo. If funds are tight, I think you can live with a Manfrotto. Their main distributor in PJ carries an extensive range of parts, unlike the Gitzo where even the tripods themselves are always out of stock, let alone parts. Manfrotto prices are quite reasonable, while Gitzos are very expensive.. Avoid buying any of those RM150 tripods. They are really useless for the long term. Carbon Fibre is light and strong and is ideal for traveling. Tripods with metal legs can be a problem in the hot sun, where they can get really uncomfortable to handle. And if you plan to shoot in snow and ice in the future, metal tripods can also be a pain.
Manfrotto
O55MFT
First rule of using a tripod is to avoid extending the center column. It increases the chances of camera shake. As far as possible, keep the center column right down. Buy a tripod that has legs which can extend to at least your eye level, so you’ll always have enough height, and at the same time their legs should be able to be spread real low and wide (I wonder why I’m smiling as I write this). And make sure the leg sections of your tripod are as fat as practicable. Fat equals stiff, and stiff means there is a lesser tendency to shake. So it follows that when you extend the legs of your tripod, you should extend the fattest sections first. And if you want to lower a tripod, push in the smallest diameter legs first because the smallest sections are the flimsiest. For added stability, you should hang your camera bag under the centre column of your tripod.
Second rule is never carry your tripod by holding the extended center column. Doing this tends to wear out the socket causing the centre column to wobble in use.
Below Manfrotto 055MFT Right - Panoramic head
Another rule is to always spread out the legs of the tripod to as wide as practicable. This will make the set up more stable. The better tripods have interchangeable footings to aid stability for various surfaces, for example, rubber feet for slippery surfaces, and spiked feet for soft ground.
Use a cable shutter release to avoid shaking the camera when depressing the shutter. If you don’t have a cable release, use the self timer switch to trigger the shutter. If you are paranoid, lock your mirror up as well, especially when shooting macros where the DOF is extremely thin.
Other features to look for when choosing a tripod is to see if a spirit level bubble is built into the tripod. The spirit level is convenient to ensure the camera is level. Check the leg locking mechanism. Gitzo’s system of twist to lock is quite good.
When buying ballheads, be aware that elcheapo heads are quite useless with long lenses. Weight tends to make them sag and over time as the ball lock mechanism weaken and slip. Get a Ballhead with hydraulic locking system. They are expensive but you’ll appreciate them over the long term. And if you are into birding and intend to use those giant bazookas, nothing beats a Wimberly head.
Let me now tell you about my Manfrotto 468MGRC2 Hydrostatic Ballhead
I've been using this Manfrotto 468MGRC2 Hydrostatic Ballhead for several years now. I'm very happy with it and I will not be buying another Gitzo or Marklin or any other head to use with my Gitzo anytime soon. I'll simply transfer this head over from the Manfrotto to the Gitzo whenever I need it.
When I bought the 468MGRC2 it was was the top of the range among Manfrotto's ballheads. I went for it after being disappointed with several other fancy ballheads I bought and was disappointed in
The 468MGRC2 employs the principle of hydraulics to lock the ball firmly, and the specs say it can support up to 10 KG. I believe that, and have not had any problems with it with all my lenses compared to previous heads which I've used. The locking mechanism is unique. Turning the knob compresses hydraulic oil in a chamber and the hydraulc principle is employed to multiply and transfer this force to the whole of the underside of the ball in a hydraulic vice like grip which is extremely tight. The body is made of magnesium and is therefore relatively light, and the ball is teflon coated so the ball movement is surprisingly smooth and feels nicely dampened and yet the grip is tremendous. Its nothing like the usual ballhead where the locking is dependent on brute mechanical force applied to the ball lock. The locking mechanism is calibrated so you can set it to suit each particular combination of lens and camera simply by turning a sub knob with just your finger tip. This liquid based hydraulic locking mechanism is a joy to use. You shoulld go and try it out to be amazed by the difference from your usual kampong type of ballhead. Unfortunately its a bit expensive but its well worth the price, based on this being a once and for all purchase.
I've also tried the Gitzo series 2 and 3 Center Ball heads. They are more than twice the cost of the 468MGRC2 which I think is unjustified. I'm not familiar with the technicalities of their locking mechanism but the Gitzos appear to be quite good too. It ought to be, at double the price of the Manfrotto.
I feel the Manfrotto 468MGRC2 Hydrostatic Ballhead is a cost effective purchase, which employs the hydraulic locking principle. If you have the extra moolah, the Marklins and the Gitzos could be a good choice too. Just dont get any of the el-cheapo kampung ballheads.
Here's another ballhead I have but which I am quite disappointed with. This is the Joystick or Pistol Grip Manfrotto 322RC2 which I dont reccomend that you buy.
This Joystick Head is more form than function. I bought this head in a moment of silliness when we sometimes go crazy and buy stuff we dont really need or want. I saw it being demonstrated at one of those camera equipment expos and was impressed and thought, what a neat invention. I've got to have it and so I bought it. I used it the first time on my monopod when I was shooting an air show with my 200mm on a Kwannon 10D, which is a light cropped frame body.
It worked well enough, and the pistol grip allowed quick ball release by merely squeezing the grip trigger to release the ball, and it locked again when I released the trigger grip.
This is how the Manfrotto brochure described it at that time:
".....Take the versatility of a ball head, add true ergonomic control and you get the 322RC2: a photographic head that allows you to unblock, move, position and lock your camera with one hand in one position thanks to the revolutionary design of its grip handle, which incorporates the ball lock lever and can also mount the optional 322RS shutter release accessory.... "
Actually the contraption lived up to everything Manfrotto said but where it failed was when I tried to use it with a heavy lens like my 100-400mm on a 1D series body. It performed poorly and frequently slipped and dipped like your spent manhood. It just couldnt take the weight and kept slipping. I had to continuously retighten the ballgrip but there was a limit about mechanical locking of the ball. If only they incorporated a hydraulic ball locking mechanism, I'm sure that would have made the contraption much better.
So I actually stopped using it when I upgraded bodies from the 10D to the 1D. The pistol grip 322RC2 so called heavy duty grip ball head went back into the box and has stayed there ever since, waiting for some silly PMer to offer to buy it. I still havent managed to sell it, but the point of this rant is to advise you agaist getting this type of toys if your camera and lens combo is heavy. Its quite good with a light lens and a consumer level DSLR body but not suitable use it with a heavy combo.
So the moral of the story with tripods and heads is always to buy the best and ignore the rest
A PhotoMalaysia Mini Pod available on special order.
Other aids for keeping the camera steady are clamps and bean bags. So do make it a habit to always use a camera support system. My advice for tripods is the same as for lenses:-
Tripods, like lenses, are forever. Buy the best, once and for all. If you have the best at the start, you will not have to upgrade. I’ve been continuously selling off my hoard of tripods, monopods and their accessories several times over in a silly continuous process of upgrading. It’s really not very clever. So buy the best at the start so that you don’t have to upgrade anymore. At the moment I have two monopods (Manfrotto 682B and 678B) and two tripod sets. The one I use when I need to travel light is a Gitzo 1541T which is light, strong, and firm enough to support upto 8 kg. For home base use, I have a Carbon Fibre Manfrotto 055MF3. For light duty use I will carry the 678B Monopod. I’d love to get rid of the Manfrotto for a Systematic Gitzo but its going to be quite painful because over the years I’ve collected lots of accessories for the 055MF3, such as focusing rails, a pano head, a hydraulic ball head, a geared 3 way head, and various other fancy and not very useful stuff. So I guess I’m locked in.
Gitzo 1541T
I'd recommend that you also get a carbon fibre tripod as a first and permanent choice. Go and check out a Gitzo. If funds are tight, I think you can live with a Manfrotto. Their main distributor in PJ carries an extensive range of parts, unlike the Gitzo where even the tripods themselves are always out of stock, let alone parts. Manfrotto prices are quite reasonable, while Gitzos are very expensive.. Avoid buying any of those RM150 tripods. They are really useless for the long term. Carbon Fibre is light and strong and is ideal for traveling. Tripods with metal legs can be a problem in the hot sun, where they can get really uncomfortable to handle. And if you plan to shoot in snow and ice in the future, metal tripods can also be a pain.
Manfrotto
O55MFTFirst rule of using a tripod is to avoid extending the center column. It increases the chances of camera shake. As far as possible, keep the center column right down. Buy a tripod that has legs which can extend to at least your eye level, so you’ll always have enough height, and at the same time their legs should be able to be spread real low and wide (I wonder why I’m smiling as I write this). And make sure the leg sections of your tripod are as fat as practicable. Fat equals stiff, and stiff means there is a lesser tendency to shake. So it follows that when you extend the legs of your tripod, you should extend the fattest sections first. And if you want to lower a tripod, push in the smallest diameter legs first because the smallest sections are the flimsiest. For added stability, you should hang your camera bag under the centre column of your tripod.
Second rule is never carry your tripod by holding the extended center column. Doing this tends to wear out the socket causing the centre column to wobble in use.
Below Manfrotto 055MFT Right - Panoramic head
Another rule is to always spread out the legs of the tripod to as wide as practicable. This will make the set up more stable. The better tripods have interchangeable footings to aid stability for various surfaces, for example, rubber feet for slippery surfaces, and spiked feet for soft ground.
Use a cable shutter release to avoid shaking the camera when depressing the shutter. If you don’t have a cable release, use the self timer switch to trigger the shutter. If you are paranoid, lock your mirror up as well, especially when shooting macros where the DOF is extremely thin.
Other features to look for when choosing a tripod is to see if a spirit level bubble is built into the tripod. The spirit level is convenient to ensure the camera is level. Check the leg locking mechanism. Gitzo’s system of twist to lock is quite good.
When buying ballheads, be aware that elcheapo heads are quite useless with long lenses. Weight tends to make them sag and over time as the ball lock mechanism weaken and slip. Get a Ballhead with hydraulic locking system. They are expensive but you’ll appreciate them over the long term. And if you are into birding and intend to use those giant bazookas, nothing beats a Wimberly head.
Let me now tell you about my Manfrotto 468MGRC2 Hydrostatic Ballhead
I've been using this Manfrotto 468MGRC2 Hydrostatic Ballhead for several years now. I'm very happy with it and I will not be buying another Gitzo or Marklin or any other head to use with my Gitzo anytime soon. I'll simply transfer this head over from the Manfrotto to the Gitzo whenever I need it.
When I bought the 468MGRC2 it was was the top of the range among Manfrotto's ballheads. I went for it after being disappointed with several other fancy ballheads I bought and was disappointed in
The 468MGRC2 employs the principle of hydraulics to lock the ball firmly, and the specs say it can support up to 10 KG. I believe that, and have not had any problems with it with all my lenses compared to previous heads which I've used. The locking mechanism is unique. Turning the knob compresses hydraulic oil in a chamber and the hydraulc principle is employed to multiply and transfer this force to the whole of the underside of the ball in a hydraulic vice like grip which is extremely tight. The body is made of magnesium and is therefore relatively light, and the ball is teflon coated so the ball movement is surprisingly smooth and feels nicely dampened and yet the grip is tremendous. Its nothing like the usual ballhead where the locking is dependent on brute mechanical force applied to the ball lock. The locking mechanism is calibrated so you can set it to suit each particular combination of lens and camera simply by turning a sub knob with just your finger tip. This liquid based hydraulic locking mechanism is a joy to use. You shoulld go and try it out to be amazed by the difference from your usual kampong type of ballhead. Unfortunately its a bit expensive but its well worth the price, based on this being a once and for all purchase.
I've also tried the Gitzo series 2 and 3 Center Ball heads. They are more than twice the cost of the 468MGRC2 which I think is unjustified. I'm not familiar with the technicalities of their locking mechanism but the Gitzos appear to be quite good too. It ought to be, at double the price of the Manfrotto.
I feel the Manfrotto 468MGRC2 Hydrostatic Ballhead is a cost effective purchase, which employs the hydraulic locking principle. If you have the extra moolah, the Marklins and the Gitzos could be a good choice too. Just dont get any of the el-cheapo kampung ballheads.
Here's another ballhead I have but which I am quite disappointed with. This is the Joystick or Pistol Grip Manfrotto 322RC2 which I dont reccomend that you buy.
This Joystick Head is more form than function. I bought this head in a moment of silliness when we sometimes go crazy and buy stuff we dont really need or want. I saw it being demonstrated at one of those camera equipment expos and was impressed and thought, what a neat invention. I've got to have it and so I bought it. I used it the first time on my monopod when I was shooting an air show with my 200mm on a Kwannon 10D, which is a light cropped frame body.
It worked well enough, and the pistol grip allowed quick ball release by merely squeezing the grip trigger to release the ball, and it locked again when I released the trigger grip.
This is how the Manfrotto brochure described it at that time:
".....Take the versatility of a ball head, add true ergonomic control and you get the 322RC2: a photographic head that allows you to unblock, move, position and lock your camera with one hand in one position thanks to the revolutionary design of its grip handle, which incorporates the ball lock lever and can also mount the optional 322RS shutter release accessory.... "
Actually the contraption lived up to everything Manfrotto said but where it failed was when I tried to use it with a heavy lens like my 100-400mm on a 1D series body. It performed poorly and frequently slipped and dipped like your spent manhood. It just couldnt take the weight and kept slipping. I had to continuously retighten the ballgrip but there was a limit about mechanical locking of the ball. If only they incorporated a hydraulic ball locking mechanism, I'm sure that would have made the contraption much better.
So I actually stopped using it when I upgraded bodies from the 10D to the 1D. The pistol grip 322RC2 so called heavy duty grip ball head went back into the box and has stayed there ever since, waiting for some silly PMer to offer to buy it. I still havent managed to sell it, but the point of this rant is to advise you agaist getting this type of toys if your camera and lens combo is heavy. Its quite good with a light lens and a consumer level DSLR body but not suitable use it with a heavy combo.
So the moral of the story with tripods and heads is always to buy the best and ignore the rest
__________________
Yusuf Hashim
Yusuf Hashim
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